In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar and warm water until the sugar dissolves. Sprinkle the yeast over the top and let it sit undisturbed for 8–10 minutes, until the surface is foamy and smells like bread. If the mixture doesn't foam, your yeast is dead — start over with fresh yeast.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and salt.

Add the yogurt and oil to the foamy yeast mixture and stir with a fork to combine. Pour the wet mixture into the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently for 2–3 minutes, just until it comes together into a smooth, slightly tacky ball. Don't overwork it — naan dough should feel soft and pillowy, not tight.

Lightly oil a large bowl (at least double the size of the dough). Place the dough in the bowl, turn it once to coat, and cover with a damp kitchen towel or plastic wrap. Set in a warm spot — next to a warm oven, on top of the fridge, or inside the oven with just the light on — and let rise for 1 hour, or until doubled in size. (If you have time, 1½–2 hours gives you even softer, fluffier naan.)

Punch down the risen dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into 8 equal pieces (about 55g each if you have a kitchen scale). Roll each piece into a smooth ball.

Heat a cast iron skillet or tava over medium-high heat for at least 3–4 minutes — you want it really hot. A drop of water should sizzle and evaporate immediately on contact.

Working with one ball at a time, dust with flour and roll into a teardrop or oval shape about ¼-inch thick and 6–7 inches long. Don't roll all of them at once — the dough relaxes and loses its puff if it sits rolled out.

Brush one side of the rolled naan with a thin film of water using your fingers or a pastry brush. Place the watered side down on the hot skillet. Within seconds, you'll see small bubbles forming on the surface.

Cover the skillet with a lid and cook for 60–90 seconds, until the bottom is deeply golden with charred spots and the top is puffed with large bubbles.

Flip the naan and cook the second side, uncovered, for 45–60 seconds, until charred in spots. The finished naan should have dramatic black blisters where the air pockets formed.

Transfer to a clean kitchen towel and cover to keep warm while you cook the remaining naan. If your skillet starts smoking or the naan is browning too fast, drop the heat to medium and let it recover for a minute before the next one.

While you cook the last naan, stir the minced garlic and chopped cilantro into the melted butter.

Brush each warm naan generously with the garlic butter. Serve immediately.