Whisk the sugar into ¾ cup warm water until dissolved. Sprinkle the yeast over the top and let sit 8 to 10 minutes, until foamy with a puffed cap. If it doesn't foam, the yeast is dead, so start over with fresh yeast.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, nutmeg, and salt.

Pour in the yeast mixture and vanilla. Stir with a wooden spoon into a thick, sticky, stretchy batter, too wet to knead and too thick to pour. It should cling to the spoon and stretch when pulled. If it looks like stiff dough, add more warm water 2 tablespoons at a time until it loosens.

Cover with a damp towel and let rise in a warm spot for 1 to 1½ hours, until doubled, smooth, and bubbly on top.

Heat 2 to 3 inches of neutral oil in a deep, heavy pot to 350°F. Test with a small piece of batter. It should sizzle and float right away.

Dip your hand in a bowl of cold water before every scoop. Grab a small handful of batter and squeeze a ball out through the gap between your thumb and index finger into the oil, or drop rounded tablespoons from a wet spoon. Fry 5 or 6 at a time.

Fry 2 to 3 minutes per side, until deep golden brown all over. They mostly turn themselves, so just nudge them with a slotted spoon if needed.

Drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining batter, scooping gently from the top of the bowl without stirring.

Serve warm, plain, rolled in powdered sugar, or drizzled with honey.