Peel the green papaya and shred using the large holes of a box grater or a julienne peeler, avoiding the top 1 inch closest to the stem where the flesh can be bitter and tough. You should have about 2 cups of shreds. Transfer to a bowl of cold water while you prep everything else. This keeps the papaya crisp and prevents discoloration.

Peel and shred the carrot using the same method. Blanch the green beans in boiling salted water for 90 seconds, then transfer immediately to ice water. They should be bright green and just barely tender with plenty of snap. Drain and pat dry.

Add the garlic and Thai chilies to the mortar. Pound until broken down into a coarse paste, about 1 minute. You want texture here rather than a smooth paste. Visible pieces of garlic and chili are correct.

Add the green beans. Pound gently 4 to 5 times, just enough to bruise and crack them open. The goal is to break the surface so they absorb the dressing.

Add the vegetarian fish sauce, lime juice, and coconut sugar directly to the mortar. Use a large spoon to stir and fold, pressing gently against the sides to combine with the garlic and chili paste. Taste the dressing at this point. It should be a balance of salty, sour, and sweet with real heat. Adjust now before adding the vegetables.

Drain the papaya thoroughly and pat dry, since excess water will dilute the dressing. Add the papaya, shredded carrot, and cherry tomatoes to the mortar. Add the peanuts.

Use the pestle and a large spoon together, pounding lightly with the pestle while turning and folding with the spoon. You are bruising the vegetables just enough to help them absorb the dressing while keeping texture. About 6 to 8 light pounds total.

Taste and adjust. More fish sauce for salt, more lime for brightness, more coconut sugar if too sharp. Transfer to plates and top with extra peanuts. Serve immediately, som tam does not hold.Notes