In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar and warm water until the sugar dissolves. Sprinkle the yeast over the top and let it sit undisturbed for 8 to 10 minutes, until the surface is foamy and smells like bread. If it does not foam, the yeast is dead. Start over with fresh yeast.

Whisk together the flour and salt in a large mixing bowl.

Add the yogurt and neutral oil to the foamy yeast mixture and stir with a fork to combine. Pour the wet mixture into the flour and stir with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms. If you are using Greek yogurt, stir a tablespoon of water or milk into it first so the dough does not come out tight.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead gently for 2 to 3 minutes, just until it comes together into a smooth, slightly tacky ball. Do not overwork it. Naan dough should feel soft and pillowy, not tight.

Punch down the risen dough and turn it onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into 6 equal pieces, about 78g each if you have a kitchen scale. Roll each piece into a smooth ball, cover loosely, and let them rest for 10 minutes so they roll out without springing back.

Heat a cast iron skillet or tava over high heat for at least 3 to 4 minutes. A flicked drop of water should skitter and vanish on contact. Drop the heat to medium-high before the first naan goes in, and open a window, because the pan will smoke a little.

Working with one ball at a time, dust with flour and roll into a teardrop or oval about 7 inches long and 5 inches across. Do not roll them all at once. The dough relaxes and loses its puff if it sits rolled out.

Brush one side of the rolled naan with a thin film of water using your fingers or a pastry brush. Place the watered side down on the hot skillet, laying it flat in one motion. It will spit briefly. Within seconds you will see small bubbles forming on the surface.

Cover the skillet with a well-fitting lid and cook for 60 to 90 seconds, until the bottom is deeply golden with charred spots and the top is domed with large bubbles.

Flip the naan and cook the second side, uncovered, for 45 to 60 seconds, until charred in spots. The finished naan should carry dramatic black blisters where the air pockets formed.

Transfer to a clean kitchen towel and cover to keep warm. Wipe loose flour out of the pan with a dry towel, then repeat with the next ball. If the skillet starts smoking hard or the naan browns before it puffs, drop to medium and let it recover for a minute.

Stir the minced garlic and chopped cilantro into the melted butter while the last naan cooks. Brush each warm naan generously with the garlic butter and serve immediately.